Ask any experienced woodturner what the single most important skill is, and most will say sharpening. A sharp tool cuts cleanly, safely, and predictably. A dull tool scrapes, bounces, and catches. If you’re fighting the timber rather than shaping it, chances are your tools need attention.

Here’s the practical guide to keeping your turning tools sharp without overcomplicating things.

Why Sharpening Matters So Much

Woodturning tools work differently from most other edge tools. A cabinet maker’s chisel gets sharpened, then used for hours or even days before it needs re-honing. Turning tools, especially on hard Australian timbers, lose their edge in minutes of active cutting.

That means sharpening isn’t a once-a-week task - it’s something you do constantly during a turning session. The good news is that once you have a system, it takes about 30 seconds to refresh an edge.

The Bench Grinder Setup

Most turners sharpen on a slow-speed bench grinder fitted with aluminium oxide or CBN (cubic boron nitride) wheels. Here’s what you want:

• Slow-speed grinder - 1,750 RPM is ideal. Standard bench grinders spin at 3,450 RPM, which is too fast and generates too much heat. Overheating the tip (you’ll see it turn blue) destroys the temper in the steel.
• Quality wheels - CBN wheels are more expensive upfront ($150-250 each) but they last essentially forever and cut cool. Aluminium oxide wheels are cheaper but need regular dressing to stay flat and sharp.
• Sharpening jig - the Wolverine system (or similar) is worth every cent. It holds the tool at a consistent angle and takes the guesswork out of sharpening. You can sharpen freehand, but a jig gives you repeatable results from the start.

A complete slow-speed grinder with a Wolverine jig will cost about $350-500 new. It’s one of the best investments you’ll make in turning.

Angles and Profiles

Each type of turning tool has a specific bevel angle and profile. Getting these right is important:

• Roughing gouge - around 45 degrees, straight across. Simple to sharpen, just present the bevel to the wheel and rotate the tool.
• Spindle gouge - 30-35 degrees with a fingernail grind (the wings swept back). Use the Wolverine vee-arm to hold the tool at the right angle and swing it through a smooth arc.
• Bowl gouge - this is the one that trips people up. The angle is typically 45-55 degrees, with a swept-back grind. The exact profile is a matter of personal preference - some turners like a more aggressive sweep, others keep it more open. Experiment to find what works for your cutting style.
• Skew chisel - 25-30 degrees, ground on both sides. Keep it flat against the tool rest and present each face to the wheel evenly.
• Scrapers - 70-80 degrees. Scrapers work best with a small burr on the edge, so after grinding, a quick pass with a burnishing rod along the top face raises a fine burr that does the actual cutting.

The Sharpening Routine

During a turning session, here’s the rhythm that works:

1. Turn for a few minutes until the tool starts to feel like it’s working harder.
2. Walk to the grinder (keep it within a few steps of the lathe).
3. Present the bevel to the wheel, using your jig. Light pressure, smooth motion.
4. Three to five seconds on the wheel is usually enough to refresh the edge.
5. Back to the lathe.

That’s it. Don’t overthink it. The most common mistake beginners make is waiting too long between sharpenings. If you’re pushing harder to make the tool cut, it’s already past due.

Testing the Edge

A properly sharp gouge should produce clean, ribbon-like shavings that curl off the timber. If you’re getting dust instead of shavings, or the surface feels rough after cutting, the tool is dull.

You can also test the edge by lightly dragging your thumbnail across the bevel. A sharp edge will catch slightly on your nail. A dull edge will slide across without biting. Be gentle with this test - the edge should be sharp enough to cut you if you’re careless.

Honing - Is It Worth It?

Some turners follow up grinding with a hone using diamond paddles or slip stones. This adds a finer edge that can give a slightly cleaner cut. For finish cuts on dense timbers, honing makes a noticeable difference. For roughing and general shaping, it’s not strictly necessary.

If you want to try honing, a set of diamond credit card stones in fine and extra-fine grits works well. Just a few strokes on the bevel after grinding.

Common Mistakes

• Grinding too long - generating heat that discolours and softens the steel. Light touch, quick passes.
• Inconsistent angles - freehand grinding without a reference means your bevel angle changes every time. A jig fixes this.
• Neglecting scrapers - scrapers need regular freshening too, not just gouges.
• Using a standard high-speed grinder - the extra speed makes it too easy to burn edges. Invest in a slow-speed unit.

Sharp tools are safer tools. They give you more control, cleaner surfaces, and a far more enjoyable experience at the lathe. Set up a good sharpening station, develop the habit of frequent touch-ups, and your turning will improve almost immediately.